september gardening tips
An Alaska Gardener’s Fall Checklist
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Precious weeks between the harvest season and hard freezes are the time to get the garden ready for winter and to begin preparing for the next growing season. Taking advantage
of these weeks in the fall is one of the keys to a successful garden. 1. Remove crop residues from garden plots. Much residue can be recycled by putting it into the compost pile. Removing it also helps to prevent disease or insect pests, such as root maggots, from overwintering and returning. 2. Remove and store poles, trellises, and portable frames. Avoid the effects of winter damage and weathering. Needed repairs or refinishing can also be accomplished now. Mark perennials for spring. A marked stake can indicate location and provide information on what should be emerging next spring. 3. Apply mulch. Mulch provides a protective, insulating layer around sensitive perennials. Avoid conditions and timing that would allow rodents to overwinter in the mulch. Grass clippings and leaves do not make good mulching materials. Straw or hay are excellent mulches. Mulch conserves moisture, reduces erosion and leaching, prevents rapid temperature fluctuations, and improves soil structure after it is incorporated. Don’t forget spring removal. 4. Surround shrub containers with insulating mulch. The amount of soil in containers is not sufficient to buffer the fluctuating extremes of winter weather. Other options would be to place the container into the ground or to store the plant in a sheltered location such as a crawl space or cool garage. 5. Till and turn heavy or compacted soils, then add organics. This allows faster drainage and warming in the spring. More organic material may be added next spring when the soil is prepared for planting. 6. Dig in a top dressing of compost for raised or deep beds. This increases drainage, improves physical structure, and adds nutrients. Material should be well composted to avoid introduction of weed seeds and other pests. 7. Put up windbreaks, fences, and protective shelters. Sheltering is an effective way to reduce the drying and damaging effects of winter winds on woody perennials. Fences may also be useful in preventing damage to plants by animals, winter traffic, and other harmful activity. Windbreak material may include boards, burlap or other material that will disrupt the force of the wind. 8. Build a compost pile. Select an open site with good drainage. Use finely divided material and turn the pile periodically to maintain aerobic conditions. Composting can recycle plant debris. Selected household scraps such as raw vegetables and egg shells provide nutrients when added to the soil and maintain the physical structure of garden soil. 9. Empty buckets, watering cans, rain barrels. Emptying reduces freezing damage, prevents the accumulation of debris and allows for any needed repairs or refurbishing. 10. Put away hoses and sprinklers. Drain completely. Check for cracks or other damage. Store in a location where they will not be subject to physical damage. 11. Store clay and terra-cotta pots out of the weather. Clean thoroughly if they have been used. Store in a dry location away from activities that may cause breakage. 12. Keep evergreen and deciduous shrubs well-watered before the ground freezes. Watering prevents winter desiccation. Plants can lose water even during dormancy. Watering is ineffective after the ground freezes. Insufficient moisture, frozen ground, and winter wind combined can result in drying or winter kill. 13. Carry out any garden expansion plans at this time. Fall is usually a time of decreased activity which allows opportunity for these projects. |
Conduct a soil test on the new garden area to determine fertility and liming requirements. This may be a good time to construct raised beds and improve the soil for their use.
14. Plant bulbs. Soil should be well drained. Fall planting allows time for root development so that the bulb can produce and push forth leaf growth as soon as spring soil condi- tions allow. Mulch to prevent temp- erature extremes. Remove the mulch in spring to allow soil warming. 15. “Winterize” perennials. Includes watering; pruning to remove dead, damaged or diseased parts; mulch- ing to provide insulation over the root area; and wrapping thin bark trees to prevent damage by winter sun and rodents. Dividing and replanting some perennials may also be required. 16. Prune raspberries, currants, roses, gooseberries and other berry bushes. Remove old non-bearing canes, thin overgrown areas, prune and remove any damaged, dead or diseased parts. Remove branches that are too close to the ground. Head back canes or branches that have grown too long. Canes may be saved for markers or supports. 17. Have frost covers ready for use on shrubs and any crops that are still in the ground. An early frost can damage garden crops and peren- nials that have not had time to prepare for dormancy. Damage from a light frost can be prevented by frost covers, but a hard freeze will probably result in extensive garden damage. Some possible frost covers include plastic milk containers, newspapers, plastic sheeting, bed sheets, paper bags, fiberglass sheets or panes of glass. 18. Sharpen and repair hand tools. Resharpen hoes to a blunt angle, about 30°. Other cutting tools can be sharpened to a finer angle, 20° to 26°. Clean off all rust and dirt and apply a protective coat of oil before storing tools for the winter. 19. Bring in soil, sand, compost and flats to use for starting seedlings later in the winter (spring). Pasteurize starting media and screened compost by heating to 180°F for one-half hour. Avoid recon- tamination of pasteurized media. Store all materials in a dry location. Clean flats with a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water if they have previously been in contact with soil. 20. Check to see that leftover and collected seeds are stored properly. Provide a cool, dry location for maximum storage life. Conduct a germination test on leftover seeds in the spring to determine viability. 21. Change management activities for the greenhouse accordingly. As days shorten and temperatures decrease, plant activity slows and requirements for water and nutrients diminish. After harvest is complete, remove plants from the greenhouse. 22. Index stored, frozen, and canned crops. Make everything easy to find and maintain an inventory of what is remaining. Storage cannot maintain quality so plan to use stored produce as soon as possible. 23. Dry herbs, collect rose hips, make dried arrangements. Herbs can be a welcome addition to winter meals. Rose hips can be made into jelly or another form for a delicious and nutritious treat. Dried arrangements will preserve your favorite flowers and plants. 24. Make Christmas gifts. Jellies, jams and canned produce make very personal and welcome gifts. Design your own personalized labels, your thoughtfulness will be long remem-bered. Dried material from your garden can be used for dried wreaths and potpourri that will bring joy for many years. For more information, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office at 877-520-5211 or online at www.uaf.edu/ces. This publication was originally developed in 1990 by Wayne Vandre, Extension Horticulture Specialist, and Marion Stirrup, Kodiak Gardener. Technical review by Michele Hébert in 2010. |
September 2013 Newsletter
Zucchini
The most popular squash grown today is the zucchini. While the zucchini has been popular in Italy for over 300 years, it did not gain widespread recognition in North America until the 1950’s. Now it is so widely grown, that in some areas of the country, people are warned to look out for “Zucchini Fairies” .... gardeners who leave baskets of squash on neighbors doorsteps! “Zucchini Fairies” like to appear during the middle of the night in order to dispose of their excess crops!
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Zucchini
The most popular squash grown today is the zucchini. While the zucchini has been popular in Italy for over 300 years, it did not gain widespread recognition in North America until the 1950’s. Now it is so widely grown, that in some areas of the country, people are warned to look out for “Zucchini Fairies” .... gardeners who leave baskets of squash on neighbors doorsteps! “Zucchini Fairies” like to appear during the middle of the night in order to dispose of their excess crops!
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September 2012 Newsletter
LAWNS
August and September are the best months of the entire year to seed your lawn. This includes both seeding a new lawn and reseeding (overseeding) an established lawn to make it thicker and healthier.
If you need to, you can lime, fertilize and seed your lawn all in the same day. Otherwise, seed and fertilize the same day and then lime later in the fall.
If needed, fall is a great time to aerate and/or de-thatch the lawn. If you decide to do one or both of these, they should be done prior to seeding.
If you like, you can top-the lawn with Orgro, an organic compost, to improve heavy compacted, clay soil. Top-dressing can be used alone or along with aeration, seeding and fertilizing.
If you do plan to aerate, de-thatch or rototill (for total renovation), thoroughly soak the soil a day or two before you start your project or perform your project a day or two after a good rain.
September is also a good time to apply a grub control to your lawn such as Milky Spore as a long-term control.
Now is also a good time to control weeds growing in the lawn, however you cannot weed kill and seed the same day. If you choose to kill weeds in the lawn first, you must wait three weeks to seed your lawn. Or, if you seed first, you will need to wait until the new seed has germinated and been mowed at least twice before applying a weed killer.
If you want to prevent winter annual weeds from germinating in the lawn, you can apply Gallery or Portrait in September, but this would prevent you from seeding now. You will have to wait 60 days to seed, which means
you would probably need to wait until spring to seed the lawn.
Tips on applying weed killer
Do not apply weed controls on newly seeded areas.
Do not apply weed controls on windy days.
Do not apply weed controls near or on the edge of waterways.
Do not apply weed controls when temperatures are above 85°F.
Do not allow children or pets to play on lawns freshly applied with weed controls. Wait until weed control is dry if you applied a liquid weed killer. If you applied a granular weed control, wait one week.
Always check the label of weed control products and follow the labeling instructions.
Feeding the Lawn
Fall is the best time to feed your lawn with a good quality, slow-release lawn food, with at least two feedings between the months of August and September.
If you are seeding or sodding the lawn, use a 14-18-14 fertilizer weighting. It is high in phosphorus, which aids in seedling germination and encourages strong root development.
If you are not seeding or sodding, use a 26-4-12 weighting. It is an ideal fertilizer to help green-up your lawn and keep it looking thick and healthy. This product is high in nitrogen, which will continue feeding the lawn over an extended period of time.
Seeding the Lawn
As mentioned, August and September are the best months to seed your lawn with improved varieties of quality grass seed. Ask your extension office for a grass seed mix best suited for your yard’s particular conditions.
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LAWNS
August and September are the best months of the entire year to seed your lawn. This includes both seeding a new lawn and reseeding (overseeding) an established lawn to make it thicker and healthier.
If you need to, you can lime, fertilize and seed your lawn all in the same day. Otherwise, seed and fertilize the same day and then lime later in the fall.
If needed, fall is a great time to aerate and/or de-thatch the lawn. If you decide to do one or both of these, they should be done prior to seeding.
If you like, you can top-the lawn with Orgro, an organic compost, to improve heavy compacted, clay soil. Top-dressing can be used alone or along with aeration, seeding and fertilizing.
If you do plan to aerate, de-thatch or rototill (for total renovation), thoroughly soak the soil a day or two before you start your project or perform your project a day or two after a good rain.
September is also a good time to apply a grub control to your lawn such as Milky Spore as a long-term control.
Now is also a good time to control weeds growing in the lawn, however you cannot weed kill and seed the same day. If you choose to kill weeds in the lawn first, you must wait three weeks to seed your lawn. Or, if you seed first, you will need to wait until the new seed has germinated and been mowed at least twice before applying a weed killer.
If you want to prevent winter annual weeds from germinating in the lawn, you can apply Gallery or Portrait in September, but this would prevent you from seeding now. You will have to wait 60 days to seed, which means
you would probably need to wait until spring to seed the lawn.
Tips on applying weed killer
Do not apply weed controls on newly seeded areas.
Do not apply weed controls on windy days.
Do not apply weed controls near or on the edge of waterways.
Do not apply weed controls when temperatures are above 85°F.
Do not allow children or pets to play on lawns freshly applied with weed controls. Wait until weed control is dry if you applied a liquid weed killer. If you applied a granular weed control, wait one week.
Always check the label of weed control products and follow the labeling instructions.
Feeding the Lawn
Fall is the best time to feed your lawn with a good quality, slow-release lawn food, with at least two feedings between the months of August and September.
If you are seeding or sodding the lawn, use a 14-18-14 fertilizer weighting. It is high in phosphorus, which aids in seedling germination and encourages strong root development.
If you are not seeding or sodding, use a 26-4-12 weighting. It is an ideal fertilizer to help green-up your lawn and keep it looking thick and healthy. This product is high in nitrogen, which will continue feeding the lawn over an extended period of time.
Seeding the Lawn
As mentioned, August and September are the best months to seed your lawn with improved varieties of quality grass seed. Ask your extension office for a grass seed mix best suited for your yard’s particular conditions.
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September 2012 Newsletter
Gardening Tips for September
Fall is a great time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, perennials, grass seed and sod. Plants that are planted in the
fall enjoy cooler temperatures and ideal growing conditions that allow roots ample time to grow into the sur-rounding soil. Use starter plant fertilizer mix when planting.
• Plants and trees that provide color in the month of September include Beautyberry, Crape Myrtles, Cotoneaster, Viburnums, Hypericum, Hydrangeas, Potentilla, Pyracantha and Butterfly Bush.
• There are lots of perennials with interest now including Coreopsis, Ccabiosa and ornamental grasses.
• Add a touch of fall to your landscape by planting hardy Mums now.
• Do not prune Azaleas, Rhododendrons and other spring flowering shrubs because they have already set their buds for next year's blooms. If you feel these shrubs do need to be pruned, however, you can prune them now, but you will sacrifice next spring flowers.
• Time to feed your plants with a good quality, slow release plant food made for perennials and flowering shrubs and trees that contains slow-release nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron and other micro-nutrients for overall plant growth and development.
• Feed evergreens (Hollies, Boxwoods and Yews) and deciduous trees (Maples, Oaks and Ash) with a tree & shrub food. This product contains slow-release nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron and other micronutrients for overall plant growth and development.
• Time to transplant peonies or divide them if you wish to multiply your plants.• Spring blooming bulbs are best to plant in August and September. Plant Iris, Tulips, Crocus, Daffodils and many others for glorious color next spring.• Add a touch of fall to your home and landscape with Mums.
• Time to put away the beetle traps until next year.
Fruit and Vegetable Gardens
Time to continue with fall crops. You can still seed beets, radishes, turnips, and leaf lettuce.
House Plants
Time to bring houseplants back indoors. If needed, spray them first with one of the following products: Schultz Houseplant Spray, Safer Houseplant Spray or Orthene. You can dust the soil with insecticide granules to prevent bringing in ants, wireworms, sow bugs, etc.
Repot pot bound plants with a potting mix. Fertilize your houseplants a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote through November, and then stop feeding them until February.
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Gardening Tips for September
Fall is a great time to plant trees, shrubs, bulbs, perennials, grass seed and sod. Plants that are planted in the
fall enjoy cooler temperatures and ideal growing conditions that allow roots ample time to grow into the sur-rounding soil. Use starter plant fertilizer mix when planting.
• Plants and trees that provide color in the month of September include Beautyberry, Crape Myrtles, Cotoneaster, Viburnums, Hypericum, Hydrangeas, Potentilla, Pyracantha and Butterfly Bush.
• There are lots of perennials with interest now including Coreopsis, Ccabiosa and ornamental grasses.
• Add a touch of fall to your landscape by planting hardy Mums now.
• Do not prune Azaleas, Rhododendrons and other spring flowering shrubs because they have already set their buds for next year's blooms. If you feel these shrubs do need to be pruned, however, you can prune them now, but you will sacrifice next spring flowers.
• Time to feed your plants with a good quality, slow release plant food made for perennials and flowering shrubs and trees that contains slow-release nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron and other micro-nutrients for overall plant growth and development.
• Feed evergreens (Hollies, Boxwoods and Yews) and deciduous trees (Maples, Oaks and Ash) with a tree & shrub food. This product contains slow-release nitrogen, sulfate of potash, iron and other micronutrients for overall plant growth and development.
• Time to transplant peonies or divide them if you wish to multiply your plants.• Spring blooming bulbs are best to plant in August and September. Plant Iris, Tulips, Crocus, Daffodils and many others for glorious color next spring.• Add a touch of fall to your home and landscape with Mums.
• Time to put away the beetle traps until next year.
Fruit and Vegetable Gardens
Time to continue with fall crops. You can still seed beets, radishes, turnips, and leaf lettuce.
House Plants
Time to bring houseplants back indoors. If needed, spray them first with one of the following products: Schultz Houseplant Spray, Safer Houseplant Spray or Orthene. You can dust the soil with insecticide granules to prevent bringing in ants, wireworms, sow bugs, etc.
Repot pot bound plants with a potting mix. Fertilize your houseplants a slow release fertilizer like Osmocote through November, and then stop feeding them until February.
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